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1. Since each finding is hand cast, the bezel depth varies from piece to piece. You will start by creating a base layer of clay to build your design on. To determine the correct amount of clay for your base, first decide if you want your cabochon to be raised or flush. Since settings vary on all pasta machines, you'll need to experiment to get the correct thickness for your base clay. 2. Roll out a sheet of clay on the largest setting of your pasta machine. Cut the sheet in half and stack one half over the other. 3. Trim a straight edge along one side of the stacked sheets with a clay blade. Match the thickness of your clay base against the outer edge of the bezel. If you wish to create a flush cabochon, the thickness of the base clay should be slightly lower than the top edge of the bezel. You may need to adjust the settings of your pasta machine rollers down, or even add a third layer of clay until you reach the desired thickness. 3. Once you have created your base, press the bezel face-down over the clay. Press slightly and remove. 4. Trim slightly the with a craft knife, following the embossed outline of the bezel. 5. Decorate the trimmed cabochon base as desired or add a trimmed and decorated sheet over the top of the clay base. 6. If adding a decorated layer (instead of directly decorating the base clay), create the sheet first. Use the bezel to cut this layer to layer to size following the directions in Steps 3 and 4. 7. When adding a top layer be sure to lay it down carefully, pressing out any trapped air between the layers. 8. Place the clay into the finding (Tip: it helps to cut the clay slightly smaller than the bezel and then gently press it down until the clay fills in any gaps). Bake the clay while still in the bezel according to manufacturers directions for temperature. Bake for at least 40 minutes. 9. When the clay has cooled, remove from bezel and reattach with two-part epoxy. Optional: Use a bezel roller to push silver edges inward for the tightest fitting. Lay the foil on well conditioned, uncured polymer clay. The colored side of the foil should be facing up so that it is visible.
Firmly stroke a credit card or the dull side of a clay blade (be sure to use extreme caution if using a blade to burnish), repeatedly over the foil. Heat and friction are what make the foil stick, not pressure. After burnishing flash the foil for 5-8 seconds with a heat gun held 4-6 inches away. After flash heating, continue to burnish the foil with your fingertips for several seconds. While the foil is still warm, quickly rip the foil off the clay.
Small speckles of exposed clay are normal and aren't usually visible in your finished project. If large spots of clay remain un-foiled, replace the foil Mylar carrier back over the clay, matching the spot over the exposed area. re-burnish and heat as above, concentrating on the exposed area. Repeat the application instructions above. If this doesn't work after one or two attempts, place a fresh section of the Mylar backed foil over the spot and repeat the application steps. To learn more of Lisa’s foiling techniques and projects check out her books: Polymer Clay Extravaganza, and Elegant Gifts in Polymer Clay, available through www.heartinhandstudio.com and soon to be released Page Sage DVD: Gifts From the Heart and Hand with Lisa Pavelka.
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